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#195209 by Paleopete
Sun Nov 25, 2012 1:14 pm
Almost every Fender Strat that I have played goes out of tune until you re cut the nut groves so that it doesn't pinch the strings.


Slacker -

Simplest solution I've found is a #2 pencil. Put some graphite in the nut slots when changing strings, intonation problems are minimized. Fender also made a gizmo called a Trem Setter a while back, I have one in my Squier Strat. It replaces the middle spring of the tremolo with a positive stop spring that lets the spring settle back to the same spot every time. Not perfect, but it helps, and the tremolo still works right. Both combined do a pretty good job.

String binding in the nut is usually caused by the strings themselves acting like little files. They cut into nut slots that might have been OK at first, but after a few months of regular gigging they cut their own grooves that are a perfect fit, allowing a greater chance of binding. If you want to stay on top of it, that can become a real problem, it only takes a couple of months of regular gigs to make a difference, and your nut slots get way too deep before long.

So the graphite is a pretty good solution, it acts as a lubricant, so the strings can slide better in the nut slots. I've kept a couple of pencils in my gear bags or guitar cases for at least 20 years. I never touch the nut slots, the graphite seems to be sufficient. Still have minor tuning problems, but usually either from temperature changes, (2 degrees can knock tuning out) or when I really romp on the whammy bar. In that case I know it's gone and I switch to a different guitar...if the temp stays constant, and I stay off the whammy bar, my Strat can stay in tune pretty well but is not as stable as my non tremolo guitars. Ditto for the Peavey Patriot.

A bone nut instead of the cheap plastic garbage they all use now is a good idea too, strings don't eat into bone as fast as plastic. I was not a happy camper when the nut on my Takamine broke during a string change and I found out my $800 guitar (Acoustic/electric and I got it for less than half that) had a cheap plastic nut...it has bone now...

I'm not sure what to think about the graphite nuts, I only have one, on the Peavey Patriot, (great guitar) and it seems to do ok but I still have to use a pencil on it same as the bone ones. Strings still bind and tuning is out the window.

Mike - I've done that for years, I noticed it long ago when trying out guitars. No need to plug in, just wanted to see how they play first. My left hand cannot handle a fat guitar neck due to a tendon injury, so 30 seconds and I know if the neck is too fat. (Gibsons are almost always too fat, especially LPs) Why bother plugging in if I won't be playing it longer than that? I quickly found out that the ones that sounded dead unplugged never sounded great plugged in, I started using that every time same as JW. If it sounds dead and lifeless unplugged, I put it back on the rack, it never gets plugged in.

A couple of times that has gotten me some dirty looks from salesmen...play a guitar for a minute or so, put it back and the salesman is trying to sell it...tell him nope, sounds like crap...$1500 guitar, he's looking at $$$ commission flying out the window...and I tell him it sounds like crap...but if it doesn't have the sound and sustain I'll know it, and I'm not looking any further. Someone else can worry about his commission...A couple have told me "but you haven't even listened to it"...Yes I did bud, and I don't need to hear it through an amp. Usually I'm already picking up another one...too late...

#195214 by crunchysoundbite
Sun Nov 25, 2012 2:43 pm
New strings are pretty much a constant thing. Information sites will show you to pull out on strings as you get them tuned in. Problem is, they show you to pull out on the string at the point at which you pluck,(for convenience, I suppose). Tuning is where the most friction from the strings a nut can get. Pull out the string being tuned from the second fret, relieving as much wear on the nut as possible, creating a finer tuned guitar. If you feel there may be wear in your nut, take a strait edge across the strings (all six), and look for low- not touching spots. Or you can change your underwear.

#195221 by Slacker G
Sun Nov 25, 2012 4:01 pm
Simplest solution I've found is a #2 pencil. Put some graphite in the nut slots when changing strings, intonation problems are minimized. Fender also made a gizmo called a Trem Setter a while back, I have one in my Squier Strat. It replaces the middle spring of the tremolo with a positive stop spring that lets the spring settle back to the same spot every time. Not perfect, but it helps, and the tremolo still works right. Both combined do a pretty good job.


Paleopete

I use Lemon oil instead of graphite as it works as well and is much cleaner. However, cutting the groove as I said earlier has solved all my tuning problems. That is the first thing I do when I get a guitar or set one up. As in my vids, I constantly use the vibrato and it always stays in tune. I have never had any problems with strings (cutting) into the nut. A round smooth string has had little cutting effect in my experience. Rather like trying to cut a bone in two with a butter knife that has a smoothly rounded and polished blade.

I was tempted to try a trem setter years ago but the flat spot kept me from doing that. Re cutting the nut has eliminated any need for one on the guitars that I own. Re slotting the nut has always solved any tuning problems for me so there is no need for me to look towards any other solutions.

The only other culprit is the vibrato itself. I have always solved that by removing the 4 inner screws on a Fender 6 hole Vibrato and installing hardened steel screws in the outer positions. The two hole Fender model never gave me any trouble.

I'm a happy camper as far as my Strats are concerned. My Strats stay in tune even when "dive bombing".

As far as new strings stretching, I have little problem with that as I also tug on them as soon as they are in place. If one does manage to stretch, I simply pull on it again. No problems. I pull them in the middle of the string. What can I say? All of this works for me. :)

#195225 by Planetguy
Sun Nov 25, 2012 4:34 pm
this is an old '64 Epiphone Newport i used to have. short scale neck.....one of many on the "wish i still had THAT one" list. i traded a HONDO LP copy that i won in a Sam Ash giveaway straight up for it.

Image

#195226 by crunchysoundbite
Sun Nov 25, 2012 4:34 pm
Can't beat what works for you!

#195228 by crunchysoundbite
Sun Nov 25, 2012 4:59 pm
Planetguy wrote:this is an old '64 Epiphone Newport i used to have. short scale neck.....one of many on the "wish i still had THAT one" list. i traded a HONDO LP copy that i won in a Sam Ash giveaway straight up for it.

Image
Looks a lot like my '65 Kalamazoo. The head is different. Basic. Very Basic. Switches for long term constant use, I believe were still in experimental stage. Guitars from that era had lots of variations, not all of them good. Slide switches for example, were not a positive clicking switch. pole switches began to be the norm because of the definite detente, which was incorporated into the five way selector. Kalamazoo is where the SG came from originally. Les told them not to name it the Les Paul because the body was thin. He thought it negligible to breakage or splitting over time. So the name "SG" was applied and adopted. Kalamazzo factory was an experiment that didn't last as well as the products it produced. A Gibson company with a ghost writers badge was the first producers of the SG. They made other models that did not succeed in time like the Sg. Possibly because of the horns double cut away style, function and look that separated it from other models on the market. It was also Kalamazoo's best bet to success. They invested the best electronics into them. That is why you will find a shortage of amenities on the others Kalamazoo produced , which include the slide switches and lack of p/u options.

#195233 by Planetguy
Sun Nov 25, 2012 6:50 pm
love to see some pics of your kalamazoo if you have any. some of their basses were pretty cool.

i'm pretty sure that was the first yr ('64) Epi adopted that headstock shape. gear junkies refer to it as the "batwing headstock". prior to that it was a 2+2 configuration.

back in the day i played a few Epi Rivoli basses (Gibson EB2/Guild Starfire semi hollow bodies) and they were all dogs. but one i've always jonesed for is the Epiphone Embassy which was kinda like a long scale version of the Newport that was considered to be Epi's version of a Thunderbird.....exact same hardware and p/u's....mahogany body and neck. they're pretty rare and you never see 'em going for less than 5K which is waaay too much scratch for me.

nice example of one here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Rzgyk9mJmA

#195243 by gtZip
Sun Nov 25, 2012 10:30 pm
Slacker G wrote:Anyone here tried "Rondo" guitars? Some of the guys on the old Digitech forum bought them and really liked them. They said the craftsmanship was excellent and they were well set up right out of the box. A couple of the guys changed the pups but others were satisfied to leave them alone. Incredably low prices on guitars that play and sound really good. You can check out the finishes on them. Prices start at about $200 for the better ones.

I have considered buying a Start copy just for the parts.


http://www.rondomusic.com/


Yes, I posted a link to them no long ago.
I got my little blue strat for 90 bucks, and the value is much better than the introductory level squires, and startcaster stuff.
The biggest flaw is the nut, but those can be replaced for likie 15 bucks (for a Tusq -- quality nut).
Pickguard is kind soft, but who cares.
The pups are not great, but... not that big of a deal.

One trip for a tank of gas and a bit of stuff from the store costs more than that guitar.
Good value for money from Rondo. If you're into modifying, and don't want to put a kit guitar together, I see it as a good way to go.

#195265 by MikeTalbot
Mon Nov 26, 2012 3:19 am
Planet G

I worked a show with a bunch of bands once and at the end we all switched instruments and jammed. I found myself playing a Dan Armstrong see through bass with sliding pickups. Weighed a ton!

It was kind of cool though and had a nice neck. Never seemed to really catch on in the market. Too heavy and I don't think they wore well in the long term.

Talbot

#195271 by lalong
Mon Nov 26, 2012 5:48 am
Paleopete you were correct. I was watching an episode of Pawn Stars and their expert was saying some better models of the Epiphone mandolin are worth upwards from $150k, because of rarity and quality.

Kramer that guitar pic in your profile is like a pure piece of art.

#195276 by Starfish Scott
Mon Nov 26, 2012 1:09 pm
I heard someone say that Gibson Mandos are worth some great chunk of change. Is that true as well?

#195294 by Planetguy
Mon Nov 26, 2012 2:28 pm
yep.... Gibson F5 mandos made between 1919 and 1924 regularly go for anywhere from 175k to 250K. lloyd loar was the big dog working at gibson back then and redesigned the mandolin introducing some very important innovations so the F5.....gibson's top of the line is highly coveted instrument. i think there were only 326 made (and signed) by L.L.

loar also designed and introduced the L5 archtop gtr as well.

as for Epi mandos....i never heard of them being highly sought out or fetching anywhere near 150K. no doubt they made some very fine mandos but unless we're talking about a one of a kind prototype oddball or some rare duck....i don't think anyone but a collector w too much money on his hands would ever drop that kind of coin on an Epi mando.

#195295 by Planetguy
Mon Nov 26, 2012 2:35 pm
MikeTalbot wrote:Planet G

I worked a show with a bunch of bands once and at the end we all switched instruments and jammed. I found myself playing a Dan Armstrong see through bass with sliding pickups. Weighed a ton!

It was kind of cool though and had a nice neck. Never seemed to really catch on in the market. Too heavy and I don't think they wore well in the long term.

Talbot


yeah mike, i remember those old lucite dan armstrong/ampeg gtrs and basses....bill wyman used one them for a while.

i had an op to play one of their fretless basses not long ago at a local music store. the owner is a buddy of mine who used to play in planet jazz.....he was gonna sell it to me for 1K (good price).....but i was totally unimpressed. as you said super heavy and it was mud city (largely because of the short scale neck i suppose).

#195298 by Kramerguy
Mon Nov 26, 2012 2:57 pm
Slacker G wrote:Yes I know that Kramer. But it is Rondo who distributes several brands, not just Agile. So before I looked up the site I posted it as Rondo guitars since that is all that I remembered at the time. I did it so people could Google it simply as Rondo guitars , because I knew it would show up that way.

Later I edited and posted the link.


Yep, I realized that, was just expanding on the discussion and my experiences with Rondo guitars :)

#196115 by crunchysoundbite
Sat Dec 01, 2012 2:50 pm
If all play nice, I may consider going premium BM so I can post pictures of my Kallyzoo. There are new members in my area I'm interested in contacting. I am waiting for a viable windfall, or just a turn of events. I got no idea what that very basic guitar is worth.

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