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#90707 by Dajax
Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:43 am
I'm going to take my Les Paul neck down to the wood this weekend. It was refinished years ago, and the lacquer never seemed to cure properly. A couple of minutes of playing results in a sticky, gummy feel, so I think taking it down to the wood, and doing a danish oil and wax finish will be the easiest way to go. My question is what coarseness of sandpaper to start with. I don't want to start with anything too fine that will take forever to do the job, but at the same time I don't want paper that is so coarse it will leave "canals" running the length of the neck. Any suggestions for a happy medium?

#90712 by ratsass
Sat Nov 14, 2009 1:04 pm
If the lacquer didn't set up properly, you might want to use some lacquer thinner and paint stripper first instead of sanding it all. Then use the fine sandpaper to finish it. Just a thought.

#90756 by gbheil
Sat Nov 14, 2009 8:25 pm
Agreed, if you use a paper course enough to remove lacquer without clogging your going to F/U that neck for sho.

#90764 by Chippy
Sat Nov 14, 2009 9:37 pm
I know you guys who play gitboxes are pretty quick but I'd think more than a weekend frankly.

If its gummy anything as regards sanding will fail. Also the weather near you will play a large part in the wood as regards moisture. It's quite likely the resin is deeper than you think?

Stripper may work yes.

#90796 by Paleopete
Sun Nov 15, 2009 1:45 am
Definitely lacquer thinner. If sanding is necessary, I wouldn't go heavier than 320 grit, and up to 800 for finishing. IMHO steel wool would be better, use 0000 grade, the finest. (0 is coarse, 0000 fine.) And if sanding must be done, always sand with the grain of the wood, never across it. Sanding across the grain tears the grain and leaves a rougher finish, as well as working dust down into the grain much more than sanding with the grain. Use tack cloth after sanding to remove as much dust as possible.

Try this first. Spray on -lightly- a fine mist of lacquer thinner. (You can get pump sprayer bottles that will work great at department stores like the dreaded wally world. Don't use an empty 409 bottle or such, the leftover chemicals may cause problems.) It should "melt" the lacquer, which will then slowly reharden. That will take a couple of weeks. I have a friend who does nitrocellulose lacquer guitar finishes, he insists on 2 months cure time before he will give the guitar back. It will not be an overnight project, don't plan on even touching the guitar for at least 2 weeks. If it does not harden after a couple of weeks, it was probably a bad batch of lacquer. In that case go back to your original plan, strip and refinish.

#90801 by philbymon
Sun Nov 15, 2009 1:54 am
I concur - strip it 1st. Sanding will be an icky mess & flook up your neck.

#90855 by gbheil
Sun Nov 15, 2009 1:36 pm
:shock:
Yea that whole recure thing Billy suggest sounds like the first step to me.
Leave it to Billy :D

#90858 by ANGELSSHOTGUN
Sun Nov 15, 2009 1:50 pm
I never heard of putting a laquer finish on a les paul neck, fender maybe.
Sounds like you are getting some bad advice. Call Gibson see if they help.

#90922 by Chippy
Sun Nov 15, 2009 8:20 pm
Best quote of the day.
Well done Glen. :D

GLENJ wrote:I never heard of putting a laquer finish on a les paul neck, fender maybe.
Sounds like you are getting some bad advice. Call Gibson see if they help.

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