Howlin
Gotta disagree with ya on this one, pedal vs knob is a big difference. I've used a volume pedal for over 20 years, I never play without it any more.
1. Never have to take my hands off the strings to change volume. Most guitar players have to stop and turn the volume up or down, then find their place in the song again. I just keep playing.
2. I don't lose treble. When I turn down, it's not cutting the pickup output, just the signal strength. Still cleans up, but keeps the treble I lose if I use the knob. Being a tone junkie this counts. A lot.
3. Better control over the volume level at any time, just move my foot.
The guy who got me started with a volume pedal told me if I used one for a month or two, I'd never play without one again. He was right, now I'm telling other guitar players the same thing, over 20 years later. It does mean one more box on the floor, but the advantages are definitely worth it. I didn't like it at first, his Dunlop was sensitive, I had to train my foot to cooperate with the thing, and I had to get over the same idea...these things are for keyboard players, guitars have volume knobs...
Once I tried it and got accustomed to using the pedal, I'll never play without one again, it's great. I even take my volume pedal and a short cable if I go out and think some band might want me to sit in. (always take my own guitar too, I don't let anyone touch my guitars onstage, I don't like to play theirs either)
I do occasionally use the knob, if I want to pull back the treble a bit, or tame a distortion pedal a little for rhythm parts, but that's not often. For tone changes I use mostly the pickup switch.
Captain:
If your speakers are wired parallel, it can work. Do the Kustom columns have two jacks? I don't remember...if so, wire one cable between the two, then another to the second jack of one speaker and check it with a multimeter. It should fall in the range of 7-10 ohms or so, usually on the low side. My 8 ohm speakers show around 6-7 ohms when not under a load. That changes once it's plugged in, 8 ohms is the 'nominal' rating, which means it wil be in the ballpark, but not necessarily exactly 8 ohms. If both wired together show 7-10 ohms it should be safe to use them with the 8 ohm PA. If it shows 32 ohms, forget it, you're wired series. I'm betting parallel, most are.
In theory, 16 ohms should be able to work, running a lower impedance speaker is more dangerous than a higher impedance. Run a 4 ohm load on a 8 ohm tube amp and you're asking for trouble. The general concensus among amp techs is one step either direction, but I stay away from a lower impedance load. Speakers are usually 4, 8 or 16 ohms. 16 ohm speakers should be ok with a 8 ohm amp, but bad idea with a 4 ohm amp. 4 ohm speakers should be ok with a 8 ohm amp, but not a 16 ohm amp. I don't like to risk it, I keep mine matched.
I blew a diode in a solid state amp many years ago by running about a 2 ohm load on a 8 ohm amp. Fortunately it was still under warranty and was fixed at no charge, and a diode is cheap. (they didn't ask about my speaker setup and I didn't tell them, it was a combo amp, I guess they didn't consider that I might have been running 2 other speaker cabinets as well...) Transformers are not cheap. The power transformer for my Peavey MX cost me $120 about 2 years ago, and that's what blew it. The jack in my old Kustom 2x12 cabinet was worn out and loose, while playing it kept losing contact and getting it back really quick due to vibration, the load/no load/load scenario was too much for the transformer. By the end of the night it was sounding like the amp was gargling...at low volume while the jack stayed put and after the jack was replaced...running mismatched is not that bad, usually it won't cause any serious damage, but don't run a really mismatched rig like I did. If I had been running 4 ohms in the other situation, it probably would have kept right on playing and the diode would still be alive. I got lucky, it made the night and blew the diode soon as I flipped the power switch next day to practice. I'm not sure why, it seems like it would have toasted parts while I was onstage cranked to near ear bleeding levels, but it made it...this was 1975, there was only one way to play...LOUD...100 watt amp maxed out and wanted more...