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#263333 by DainNobody
Wed Jul 27, 2016 2:04 am
that will be the beauty of having my CUBE 40gx.. I will literally be able to dial up anything efx wise. and then set it on a channel, yes you can assign leads with different modulations and hit the foot pedal and oila it's there..it will take a day or so to figure the amp out LOL :D
#263346 by DainNobody
Wed Jul 27, 2016 1:15 pm
Jimmy, I was sure considering the Blackstar ID CORE40 too, ..ther e were neither any CORE 40s or CUBE 40gx in stock anywhere in Springfield.. wanted to go try them out ..audio clips of the CUBE 40 at musiciansfriend was the kicker.. it can play shimmering cleans and heavy metal and even has an acoustic guitar simulation channel which might come in handy.. I know I will need some heavy sound on the Sawyer Brown's rendition of Six Days On The Road lead solo 8)
#263347 by GuitarMikeB
Wed Jul 27, 2016 1:28 pm
I haven't played the Roland, but you are right that today's solid state amps and built-in FX are a lot better than they once were. However - is 40 ss watts going to be enough to play with this band? Of course live you can always mic the amp.

Remember when you used to be able to go to Radio Shack and test tubes for free? The last time I changed all the tubes in my Fender Bandmaster (2 power + 7 others), total cost was about $55. Then the amp sat gathering dust for 20 years. The tubes were pretty funky at that point and would have cost me about $200 to replace them all. Just one of the reasons I sold it when I did. (40 lb head and 90 lb 2x12 cabinet was the other).
#263349 by DainNobody
Wed Jul 27, 2016 1:36 pm
Mike, not sure what kind of board he has? never have met any of them, talked on the ph. setting up an audition , and might not even pass that? but this guy has some photos of him with Kenny Chesney with Kenny''s arm around his neck on some stage in Nashville..so after listening to him sing on youtube I am convinced he is in that Chesney like league of vocalists..40 watts will be fine miced.. and surely he has a 24 channel Mackie or equivalent quality? or I would think? :)
#263353 by Displaced Pianist
Wed Jul 27, 2016 2:30 pm
Dayne, I hear ya re: electrolytic capacitors; PITA to replace, assuming you have the schematics or can still see the designators on the caps. And assuming they didn't leak all over your PCB, pitting the traces. I have an old Roland FP-8 where most of the caps had gone bad, and most of 'em had leaked--old age and heat was the culprit. I love that piano, so I decided to fix it. The only local shop that would touch it wanted ~$800 (and NO guarantee), so I said 'screw it--I'll do it meself.' Didn't have a heat gun, but did have a good iron and most of the tools to work on PCBs and enough know-how to be dangerous, got all the parts I needed and gave it a shot.

It took some time & effort (mostly prep work), but I did ok the first time 'round, altho I did need to go back and redo 2 of the replacement caps. I also had to replace both primary ribbon cables, which were very difficult to find. But in the end, I came out a winner. For ~$30, my Roland is back in shape and is still my go-to keybed. Call me cheap, but I ain't ready to spring for that $3500 Korg they got @ Sammy's.

Btw, saw the thread about your audition. Happy for you, hope it goes well. When you're out on tour (think positive) and in the Tampa/central FL area, lemme know and I'll come out and heckl...er, check out the band. Ha!
#263354 by DainNobody
Wed Jul 27, 2016 2:44 pm
thanks DIsplaced Pianist, I think I will get my ohmmeter out and check every one of my pots someday in the near future.. if I heard some crackling noise or something I would sooner think a pot is bad or going bad, but I don't hear crackling or pops.. when I was tapping the one pre-amp tube with a pencil that was not glowing like the others I heard some crunching or clicking noise? maybe the socket is failing? it wasn't a howl like sound as in a bad tube suffering microphonics issues but a click sound, nonetheless the amp will be set on the back burner.. for now.. :)
#263358 by Displaced Pianist
Wed Jul 27, 2016 3:40 pm
For what you're describing, I doubt it's the socket--they rarely go bad. Just for fun, blow it out w/ compressed air and see what you get. That noise is more associated w/ a transformer, but since you can replicate it when you tap on that tube, I'm betting on the tube--and it's easy to replace. Given the age and lack of recent use, it'd be a good idea to disassemble, inspect/clean/lube everything completely and put it back together, then put the ohmmeter on it. Or you can take it in somewhere and pay someone to diagnose it for you--but I gather you're more the DIY kinda guy, like me. So yeah, putting it on the back burner is understandable.
#263360 by DainNobody
Wed Jul 27, 2016 3:57 pm
yes, as long as you bleed the electrolytics should be fine, should be a bleeder resistor taking care of that but I would not bet my life on it..downloaded a schematic yesterday of the Hot Rod Deluxe....always do that first before you start probing.. :)
#263361 by DainNobody
Wed Jul 27, 2016 3:59 pm
Displaced Pianist, when you mentioned a heat gun, is that not a little overkill? could you not melt other wiring using one, I always used those (and I own one) to melt heat shrink only..
#263363 by Displaced Pianist
Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:34 pm
Dayne Nobody IV wrote:Displaced Pianist, when you mentioned a heat gun, is that not a little overkill? could you not melt other wiring using one, I always used those (and I own one) to melt heat shrink only..

Ok, ok, I shoulda said "resoldering/rework station"--heat gun for short. The correct tool for doing PCB work. This is the Hakko, the primo of rework stations:

http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko/701-15/ ... g_Campaign

You can get good ones for much less (some that don't include an iron), but a decent one will still run a couple hundred. These gently melt soldering paste to remove/replace small components like caps. If I was doing this kinda thing on a regular basis, I'd def. get one, but...
#263364 by DainNobody
Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:37 pm
I have several Wellers and acquiring more all the time in "auction boxes" and although not the rolls royce of soldering irons, they work good enough.. :)
#263365 by Displaced Pianist
Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:52 pm
Yeah, there are components you can do w/ an iron, but a gun is the right tool, esp. when you're doing tiny SMD components like caps. It ain't easy getting underneath to melt the paste properly. I had some doubts when I worked on my Roland, and I'm relatively skilled at such things. But I have a good iron and some fine-point tips, so was able to pull it off. But if I was doing it on a regular basis...
#263366 by DainNobody
Wed Jul 27, 2016 6:11 pm
solder sucker works and wicks
#263367 by DainNobody
Wed Jul 27, 2016 6:13 pm
and use your heat sink or you can hurt components..grip it to soak up that heat.. don't melt them.. 8) :wink: :mrgreen:

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