Musician Gear & Tech Discussion

Ok, I know a lot of you guys build and repair your own musical equipment.
I,ve been reading up, and locating sources to upgrade my repair area in my shop to include some basic electronic work.

I guess my first / most important question centers around what type of solder is best for electronics.
I see the lead based rosin core stuff in various grades as well as silver.
I would guess the silver would be best for electronic repairs.
I have some soldering experience but that has been many moons ago.

Opinions? Input?

wiring pedals = always use silver (better physical hold IMO)

wiring gtrs... I still use silver but not sure I need to.

overall, probably never see a dif.

Thanks !

All the reading I have done so far said to use standard lead/tin solder.
For some reason I always heard that you "had" to use silver on musical and other "high tech" electronics for better conductivity.

Anyone else?

I repaired a Marshall IBS 200 watt Bass Head system, as it had a few pots broken off. (So I got the pots, pulled them and replaced them.)

When I did it, I used silver. I just figured that it was more conducive to the repair.

My "tech" says that I should have used LEAD as it has a lower melting point, but weaker bond.

SILVER is evidently used when you need strength.

Long story short, I am as confused as I was to begin.

SOMEONE really know? Anyone?

Further reading research points to the same facts that the Cap,n alludes to. Slightly more conductive due to a small silver content and a stronger bond. However the same article also said that the additional heat required to melt the solder with a silver content could be damaging to components and insulation, and recomend the use of a heatsink .
I have pretty much decided to go with standard 60/40 rosin core solder. And the purchase of two irons. one variable 15-30 watt for fine work, and a second 45 watt iron for the larger jobs I have to do.

Silver solder is in FACT more conductive but in most applications we see it isn't going to make a dif. I use it bcuz it makes a better physical hold.

I can't imagine what you'd potentially damage soldering pots (pot + wire), but I suppose you could heat up the wires enough that the heat would make it's way back to the board.


I'd use silver if you can afford it. You aren't going to damage ANYTHING on a std gtr (barring an active circuit or something). The only downside being trying to 'un-solder' it later (it holds well).

I will take that into advisement Mike. Most of the stuff I need to repair is like cables, and pedals where wire has broken loose due to use and abuse. The stronger bond would be beneficial in those applications.
Also considering building my own custom guitar, mic, and speaker cables.
Seems the components are not all that expensive in comparison to paying retail.

If you're going to do a lot of soldering (and desoldering), I'd get one of these as well:

http://www.ameritronics.com/solder_sucker_desolder_thru-hole.htm

They're very handy.

Hey, Sans (and anyone else), I think I posted this awhile back, but thought I'd repeat myself since you're getting industrious about making your own cables. Wal Mart has 120' outdoor extension cords for about $15 each. They are bright green, 2 conductor, and more flexible than regular extension cords and are perfect for making speaker cables. Radio Shack has the 1/4" plugs that have the larger canon type plastic covers on them. They are heavy duty and I've never had the plastic break on them. The soldering contacts on them are large, easy to solder and they have screws in them that you can take out and run the wire through the hole for permanent soldering. Also, you can buy extra sets of them to keep for emergency repair so that you can use the screws for quick fixes. The hole in the plastic end is just a bit smaller than the extension cord so you just ream it out (carefully) with the appropriate drillbit and it's a perfect fit.
Another good idea (mine) is to save about a couple of feet of each end of the extension cord with the AC plug ends on them and put one of the 1/4" plugs on each one. Plug it together and you have a great 4' speaker cable (perfect for piggy back guitar or bass amps). AND if you need a really long speaker cable, you can pull them apart and insert a regular extension cord in there and you have whatever length speaker cable you need.

I am really surprised that works. I always thought speaker cables were specialy shielded.
It is amazing who we can have so much practical knowledge in one area, and be a total dumdass in another.
Good info
Thanks.

count me in the dumbass crowd..

I am just sitting here with my mouth open after reading that one.

Thanks Rat!

I always thought speaker cables were specialy shielded.

Instrument and mic cables are shielded. Speaker cables are not. That's why, in an emergency you can use an instrument cable for speakers (as long as it's low power). But you can't use speaker cable for instruments or you'll get a buzz (and not in the good way).

Thanks again !!

George, I'm just curious to know what kind of repairs you're talking about. If it's possibly going in the direction af amp repair, I would suggest that you first and foremost read up on draining capacitors before feeling around the inside of one. They store electricity long after an amp has been unplugged, and it can kill you to touch one.

Just thought I'd throw that out there in case that's where you were headed.

Thank you for your concerns for my safety brother. But dont worry. I have enough electrical back ground to know my limitations. I am well aware of the dangers of capacitors.
I am at the point just doing simple stuff like replacing the battery connector that got ripped out of my wireless receaver somehow.
And I have some instrument cables I need to repair as well.
I did finally purchase a small solder pen 15 or 30 watts switchable.
I has worked really well so far using standard 60/40 rosin core of .032 diameter. When I get caught up on some of my bills I am going to upgrade my shop with a solder station. (on the other side of the room from my reloading powder storage ) Then I may look into some more complex projects.